Mounting Components

1.         Remove the top panel by removing 4 screws holding on the top, and lifting the top.  Remove the black reservoir lid and set aside.  Pull hoses out of the way and remove water tank and set aside.


2.        Remove front panel by removing two screws from the front panel, and slide it out laterally to the right, moving foam nozzle out of the way

3.        Remove bottom grating and bottom tray


4.        Remove inner rear shield that forms the housing for the water tank.  This is accomplished by unscrewing two screws holding on rear shield, holding the hoses out of the way, and wrestling that damn thing out of there.


5.        Mount Solid State Relays (SSR).  Please note that although the pictures may show 25A SSR, you will need 40A SSR for the Silvia V3.  25A did work on Silvia V1, but not on V3.  Hold up SSR’s and mark holes with a screwdriver.  Drill holes using quality Cobalt bits – the metal is extremely strong.  Wear eye protection.


6.        Mount the SSR’s using screw & nut  #8-32 x ½”


7.        Secure the 1-wire temp sensor to boiler.  Using a 3-4” hose clamp (metal), affix the 1-wire temp sensor to the boiler.  Use some thermal compound to help make a good contact for heat transfer.


8.        Set the other end of the wire aside where it will not get in the way, we will wire this up later        

9.        Wiring.  Before you mess with the wiring, have a look at the way things are currently wired.

Create some wiring harnesses using 14ga high voltage wire:

* Black wire – 10ga female connector with 3 wires

—  short wire 4” ending in a 14ga male connector

—  long wire 16” ending in a 14ga female connector

—  long wire 16” ending in bare wire

* Black wire – 12” bare wire one side, 14ga female connector other side

* Red wires – 10ga female connector with 2 wires

—  short wire 4” ending in 14ga male connector

—  long wire 16” ending in a 14ga female connector

* Blue wires (two alike)

—  12” bare wire one side, 14ga male connector other side

—  12” bare wire one side, 14ga male connector other side


10.        The long wires with female connector will be used to power the USB.  I’ve used a little bit of heat shrink to cover the bare metal of the plug.  Some may say this is not an ideal thing.  Probably right.  Give me a better idea that works and is cost effective and I will update the document.  I think the important thing is to suspend this a bit when we install it so that it does not come in contact with water.  Zip ties or the like should be fine to keep it suspended.

11.        Now that we have the wiring harnesses, wire things up according to this diagram.  

12.        Drop the USB power adapter down the back near the pump for now.  Now the machine should look like this from the top:


And should look like this from the front


13.        Using Dremel, cut off the screw that’s sticking out to the right of the relays:

14.        About ½ inch to the left of that screw, drill a hole to mount the Raspberry Pi case.  This will be the bottom of two holes, you will have to measure for the top hole.  If you do this then you should not have any problem with the clearance for the drip tray, even with your wifi adapter in.  Try it now to be sure.    Before you mark for the top hole, trim a little off the bottom of the top mounting hole on case so that the mounting screw does not come in contact with the SD card, see below:

15.        Mount the Raspberry Pi.  You can do this with screws, but my last build I used aluminum rivets as they were more flush.  In any event, cover the screws / rivets with electrical tape so they don’t short out the Pi.  Trust me.

Next up, Modifications to the Faceplate